We got Mulege’ed. What was supposed to be a day or two chillin in town ended up being a week. We spent 4 days in Mulege, hangin out at Don Chanos camp among the citrus trees; spending our days kayaking, fishing, and chillin with some crazy cats.
Hangin at our killer camp spot in Mulege’
Our team then proceeded to pedal the 20km south to El Coyote. El Coyote is a beautiful bay within the bay of Concepcion. The cactus covered desert hills roll into pristine blue water in this horseshoe shaped beach.
Cool sustainable shred van beached at el coyote. Had built in kitchen as well as solar panels making it completely self sustained when chillin on the beach.
Camp was made at a palapa on the beach belonging to our friend Paul who we met in Mulege’. Paul is an old hippie glassblower who lives in a purple house on the hill in Coyote. Unfortunately he was ill while we were there and we didn’t get to hang out with him much.
Paul’s Palapa, El Coyote
We also met a young couple from California named Mark and Jen who were house sitting a cool house on the bay for an old couple before they journeyed off to Hawaii for the winter! We were planning on leaving the next day but ended up staying an extra day. This turned out to be great as we accomplished a bunch of cool stuff. We visited our new buddy Steve who lives on the mountain overlooking the whole bay. He inherited this radical house from his goodbuddy Jake who passed away a few years back. Steve is an oldschool cyclist from Nevada who grew up riding with Greg LeMond. He was telling us about the race he did last year in Hawaii where you climb from sea level to 10,000 ft up a volcano. Thats a serious climb ladies and gentlemen. Needless to say this guy is no joke. He has done the Baja 1000 off road race on a dirt bike in 13 hours. Finishing in 3rd place. Steve told us he was sick of motorcycle touring because of the speeding tickets and just wanted to do bike tours. His first bike tour was from Las Vegas NV to Missoula MT. Naturally he fell in love with it. Steve was stoked on our tour and wished he could join us.
the view of El Coyote from Jake’s Place
After visiting Steve our other friend Shaun the sailor came and found us on the beach! He had been looking for us for a few days trying to take us sailing. We had just missed him that morning and it was great that he found us. Shaun said “You guys wanna go sailing?” To which we replied “YEA!” Shaun said “WELL LETS GO SAILING!!” We swam out to his 26 ft Catamaran and proceeded to rig the ship for an afternoon cruise out on the bay. Henry and Ike both have previous sailing experience whereas Bkoz and Tommy hadn’t spent much time out on the water. Once the cat was rigged we were ready to sail. Southerly winds prevailed as Hen steered the boat out of the bay while Shaun hoisted the jib sail. The cool thing about a catamaran is that it has two hulls and a trampoline connecting them so it doesnt need a centerboard for balance. A mellow cruise out on the bay, it was very enjoyable to do stuff other than biking. Sailing is an excellent means of sustainable transportation due the fact that is doesn’t use any fuel. Harnessing the wind as we zoom around the bay. The sailors we have met who live on their boats say, “Its a small house, with a big back yard!”
Shaun explaining the sailor lifestyle
B- Koz riding in front of the 26 ft catty
After this awesome sailing expedition we had to keep on truckin south! Finally back on the bikes we cruzed in and out of the mountains and the coast. On our way to Loreto we ran into a friend that we had just previously met in Mulege, Rick, who was picking up his family at the airport. He ended up being so excited on our tour that he wanted to buy us lunch. Gave us enough pesos for an awesome lunch of fish, carne and cabeza (head of cow) tacos with a salsa bar!!! We tried to see how many tacos we could eat. We ordered a grand total of 32 tacos and Tommy managed to out taco us by one taco with a grand total of 9 tacos. He is the current king of tacos.
at the king of tacos ! Thanks Rick for lunch!!
It was here, at “El Rey Del Tacos” (The King of Tacos), that we met a very inspirational guy who also goes by Steve. He was a bike tour master, doing trips down through Mexico and into Central and South America. He did one trip that consisted of 14 days from Flagstaff, AZ to La Paz, Baja Sur! He said he was by himself doing 100-160 mile days! He ended up getting into a bike/car accident when he was riding his bike in his hometown of Flagstaff AZ. Now being in a wheel chair, he is still as stoked as ever but instead of riding the pavement, he now owns the water in the sea kayak. He said, “You make the choice if you want the day suck or not.” Leaving the taco shop with motivation and a super positive feeling of encouragement, we prepped ourselves for the large mountain pass that we had to ascend the following day.
Woke up to the sea in the east and jagged mountains to the west. We started the climb in a place that had a very jurassic park feel and wouldn’t have been surprised if a Tyrannosaurus Rex was roaming around in the mountainous jungle or a pterodactyl was flying through the mountain peaks!
Summiting the epic uphill felt great, everyone was glad to make it to Ciudad Insurgents where we met a nice family who owned the local water purification store. Ike asked them where to camp and they brought him to a spot behind the local veterinary tech school. We all biked there and had a nice safe spot to hang out. Even made our own chairs out of some old fuel filters which was a nice change up from the every day dirt seat. That night we decided that we wanted to try for the 100 mile (160 km) day in the morning.
Leaving the beach for a mountain push!
After a good team meeting we all agreed that we should go for it as it was the flattest section and would be the best time to go for the century ride! Woke up before the sun to a bunch of semi saturated tents and a chilled feeling in the air. Needless to say we were all ready to hit the road. We did 100 km before lunch and were feeling good. As is tradition, we took a nice siesta in the shade at Pancho’s cafe. The remaining 60km were rolling hills that burned with every pedal stroke! Eventually we managed the 160 kilometers which translates to 100 miles! An awesome accomplishment for our crew! Everyone was pretty knackered and there was still 78km to get to La Paz the next day to complete our Baja 1000.
el cien – meaning 100. big day on the bike
We made an agreement before the tour that the sustainably south crew would pick up at least one bag of trash every week. Below is over 20 coca cola bottles that were all collected within 100 yards from this trash can in this amazing mountain range! Littering has been a big problem in Mexico and will get worse as we go to mainland. There is no recycling that we have seen but we did run into a man that started the first composting business in Loreto called “earthcomp organic compost.” The creator of this company, Tim, has started to pick up compost from restaurants and markets around town and adds it to his garden where he grows fruits and vegetables. He gave us a mango and jalapeño jam that he made with all of his own mangoes and peppers.
Coke bottles all gathered within 100 ft of this trashcan. Conserva limpia la carretera translates to “Keep the roads clean”
Everyone was exhausted as we made the final push to La Paz! The capital city of Baja California Sur. La Paz sits on a big bay on the Sea of Cortez. The beachside Malecon, harbors, and a mixture of funky shops make for an entertaining stroll, or in our case bike ride. We have been hangin out in La Paz the last day or so taking care of errands. We mailed a package full of Clif Bars to La Paz about a month ago and after all the stories we heard about the Mexican postal system, we were surprised to find that they were waiting for us at the post office. La Paz has been super chill. We hang out at the Shack for happy hour beers and chill at the Hostel Pension California where we are staying. They have a sweet courtyard common area and a rooftop chill zone! We will be getting on the ferry to the mainland in a few days to start the next leg of the voyage!
You can ride without rhythm but always cruz with styleeeë
-Ike & Hen